Trip report: Canary Islands (Lanzarote and Fuertaventura), december 1998

Sjaak Schilperoort, Voorschoten, The Netherlands; sjaak@xs4all.nl

Trip description

My wife and I decided to escape both the Christmas festivities and the dutch winter and book a trip to Lanzarote. We stayed with two of our children (5 and 6 years old, we left our half-year old baby with my parents in Holland) in Puerto del Carmen, from 17 through 31 december 1998. We rented a car for the full period. This enabled me to visit the most interesting birding area's more than once. We also made a one-day trip to Fuertaventura on 26-12-1998, taking the car with us on the ferry from Playa Blanca.

Lanzarote holds some interesting bird species (and subspecies), but both the number of species and number of birds is quite low. When driving/walking across the island it often looks deserted, and some parts (e.g. the lava fields) indeed are. The salinas are an exception with many waders and many species present in a small area. Finding the most interesting species (houbara bustard, barbary falcon, barbary grouse) proved to be not that hard, thanks to the excellent guidelines in Tony Clarke's birdwatcher's guide (see below). I have visited all Lanzarote sites mentioned in the book. The information was quite accurate and the resident birds mentioned were present. One exception must be noted: finding the cream-coloured courser proved very difficult for me. I had spent some 10 hours birding on the El Rubicon and El Jable plains before finding it, only 2 days before leaving Lanzarote (phew!). Stone-curlews were not that common either. While searching for desert birds I encountered a large number of spectacled warblers on the plains (especially El Jable). They turned out to be more common than some trip reports would suggest. Knowing the alarm call (wren-like) helps a lot in finding them.

I have seen most wader species at Laguna de Janubio. The northern shore of the Laguna and the adjoining part of the Salinas hold most birds and they can often be seen at very close range. Using a telescope is rewarding though. One visit to the salinas near Cotoceras produced some extra species for my holiday list, but I found the Janubio area holding both more bird species and larger numbers.

One day we followed a trail described in the Sunflower book, a climb from Máguez to Los Helechos. This mountain top gives splended views over the nothern part of the island, including the Riscos de Famara (and the two miradors) and the small islands off the coast. We just went for the view, but surprisingly from the top of Los Helechos we had excellent views of two nearby barbary falcons, gliding, diving and racing over the cliffs. The most spectaculair stunt I saw was gaining speed in horizontal flight, then roll over on the back and from an upside-down position make a slow curve to a steep and incredible fast dive.This was my finest birding moment on this trip (together with finding the cream-coloured courser ;-).

During a lunch break in Haría I walked around the centre of town. Near Calle Molinos I found a garden holding 3 blue tits (ssp. degener), a sardinian warbler, several spectacled warblers, a blackcap, a chiffchaff, a black redstart, a hoopoe and spanish sparrows. A nice collection, as songbirds are not that common on Lanzarote in winter.

One day we went to Fueraventura, with the Fred Olsen ferry from Playa Blanca. Booking in advance was not needed, just bought a ticket at 7:30 am (return trip with car and four persons: 14.000 ptas or 86 euro), and started birding at Cotillo at 9:00 am (with black-bellied sandgrouse, houbara bustard and palid swift before 9:30 am!). Visiting Los Molinos and Peñitas on the same day was quite feasable. I managed to find the Canary Island Chat (turned out not to be that easy) just before the deadline for catching the ferry back.

Because of the unfavorable time of year I have not spent much time looking over sea for seabirds. I did not sea a single seabird from our sea-view appartment in Puerto del Carmen, nor from the Fuertaventura ferry or from a (short) visit to Punto de Pechiguera.

Literature

A Birdwatchers Guide to the Canary Islands, Tony Clarke & David Collins, 1996, Prion Ltd. A must for everyone visiting the area and wanting to find birds.
Landscape guide to Lanzarote, 1998, Sunflower Books. Description of nice walks and background information on the landscape. Includes detailed maps of some of the areas.
The birds of Brittain and Europe, with North Africa and the Middle East, Heinzel, Fitter & Parslow, dutch edition by Tirion. Covers the Canary Isles and describes many of the subspecies occuring on the Canary Isles.
Shell Generalkarte Gran Canaria, Fuerteventura, Lanzarote, 1:150.000, 1996. Adequate for finding your way around.
Some trip reports from the Internet:

Bird species list

Sites that are on Fuertaventura are marked with (F). I have seen 71 bird species, 14 of which are only seen on the one-day trip to Fuertaventura. I've made some video-shots of the birds I encountered (using a Sony TRV69E HI8); some snapshots are included in the following species list.

Black-necked Grebe - Podiceps nigricollis: 24-12-1998 and 29-12-1998: 1 at Laguna de Janubio.
Cattle Egret - Bubulcus ibis: Common in the south-eastern part of the island, individuals often seen feeding along the road. Larger numbers were present in El Jable/Teguise Plains: 25-12-1998: 10 and 29-12-1998: 83, both times feeding behind a tractor together with yellow-legged gulls.
Little Egret - Egretta garzetta: Common along the coast. Most often single individuals seen. Larger numbers: 22-12-1998: 6 at Laguna de Janubio and 23-12-1998: 5 at the salinas below Mirador de Guinate. Two other observations: 26-12-1998: 1 above sea, seen from the ferry halfway between Lanzarote and Fuerteventura and 30-12-1998: 1 flying in from sea and landing between the sun-bathers at Puerto del Carmen. The bird was apparently exhausted from a long flight over sea. When approached by tourists it just walked away over the beach.

Little egret on the Puerto del Carmen beach, 30-12-1998
Grey Heron - Ardea cinerea: 18-12-1998: 1 at Puerto del Carmen, 20-12-1998: 4 at Arrecife, 22-12-1998: 1 at Laguna de Janubio, 26-12-1998: 1 at Embalse de Los Molinos (F).
Spoonbill - Platalea leucorodia: 23-12-1998: 1 at the coast and salinas below Mirador de Guinate.
Ruddy Shellduck - Tadorna ferruginea: 26-12-1998: 8 at Embalse de Los Molinos (F).
Widgeon - Anas penelope: 26-12-1998: 1 at Embalse de Los Molinos (F).
Teal - Anas crecca crecca: 22-12-1998 and 29-12-1998: 1 female at Laguna de Janubio, 26-12-1998: 6 at Embalse de Los Molinos (F).
Pintail - Anas acuta: 18-12-1998 and 29-12-1998: 1 female at Laguna de Janubio.
Shoveler - Anas clypeata: 18-12-1998, 24-12-1998 and 29-12-1998: 1 pair at Laguna de Janubio.
Scaup - Anas marila: 26-12-1998: 1 male at Embalse de Los Molinos (F).
Buzzard - Buteo buteo insularum: 26-12-1998: 1 at Embalse de Las Peñitas (F).
Kestrel - Falco tinunculus dacotiae: Common and seen all over the island. Larger numbers: 18-12-1998: 5 around Playa Blanca, 20-12-1996: 6 in El Jable.
Barbary Falcon - Falco pelegrinoides: 21-12-1998: possibly 2 seen over the cliffs from Playa de la Canteria near Orzola (from a large distance, they were gone before I could put up the telescope), 28-12-1998: close views of 2 birds gliding and diving over the sea cliffs, seen from Los Helechos (518 m).
Barbary Partridge - Alectoris barbara: 25-12-1998: 20 around the Tachiche golf course, 28-12-1998: 3 at the same place.
Coot - Fulica atra: 26-12-1998: 90 at Embalse de Los Molinos (F).
Houbara Bustard - Chlamydotis undulata fuertaventurae: Seen on five occasions and much more easier to find than cream-coloured courser: 20-12-1998: 1 near Tao/El Jable, 22-12-1998: 5 at El Rubicon (halfway between Salinas de Janubio and Playa Blanca, on a cultivation at the east side of the road), 26-12-1998: 2 south of Cotillo (F), 27-12-1998: 1 at El Rubicon (same place as 22-12-1998), 29-12-1998: 1 flying overhead near Tao/El Jable.; My first Houbara Bustard, seen in strong backlight,
crossing the El Jable plain, 20-12-1998
Black-winged Stilt - Himantopus himantopus: 18-12-1998: 10 at Laguna de Janubio, 24-12-1998: 12 at Laguna de Janubio.
Stone-curlew - Buhrinus oedicnemis insularum: 20-12-1998: 1 heard at El Jable, 25-12-1998: 3 near the parking lot of the Tachiche golf course, 26-12-1998: 1 flying past north of Playa Blanca, 29-12-1998: 3 near Tao and 1 along the road just west of Salinas de Janubio

A stone-curlew along the road west of the Salinas
de Janubio, 29-12-1998.
Cream-coloured Courser - Cursorius cursor bannermani: 29-12-1998: 9 at El Jable, where the dirt road from Sóo to Teguise meets the La Caleta road. They flew up when alarming yellow-legged gulls flew over.
Little Ringed Plover - Charadrius dubius: 26-12-1998: 14 at Embalse de Los Molinos (F).
Ringed Plover - Charadrius hiatucula: Several at Laguna de Janubio (24-12-1998: 4) and the Salinas near Coceteros (29-12-1998: 6).
Kentish Plover - Charadrius alexandrinus: 18-12-1998 and 24-12-1998: 2 at Laguna de Janubio, 29-12-1998: 1 at the Salinas near Coceteros.
Grey Plover - Pluvialis dubius: A small group at Laguna de Janubio, 22-12-1998: 12.
Lapwing - Vanellus vanellus: 22-12-1998: 1 at Laguna de Janubio.
Sanderling - Calidris alba: Common at Laguna de Janubio (29-12-1998: 46) and the Salinas near Coceteros (29-12-1998: 8).
Little Stint - Calidris minuta: 24-12-1998: 6 at Laguna de Janubio, 29-12-1998: 1 at the Salinas near Coceteros.
Curlew Sandpiper - Caladris ferruginea: 29-12-1998: 3 at the Salinas near Coceteros.
Dunlin - Calidris alpina: Common at Laguna de Janubio, 24-12-1998: 25.
Ruff - Philomachus pugnax: 29-12-1998: 1 at the Salinas near Coceteros.
Snipe - Gallinago gallinago: 26-12-1998: 1 at Embalse de Los Molinos (F).
Black-tailed Godwit - Limosa limosa: 29-12-1998: 1 at the Salinas near Coceteros.
Whimbrel - Numenius phaeopus: 1 at Laguna de Janubio (22-12-1998: 2), 1 flying over sea at Puerto del Carmen, 26-12-1998: 1 south of Cotillo (F).
Spotted Redshank - Tringa erythropus: 26-12-1998: 1 at Embalse de Los Molinos (F).
Redshank - Tringa totanus: Common at Laguna de Janubio (24-12-1998: 8) and at the Salinas near Coceteros (29-12-1998: 8) .
Greenshank - Tringa nebularia: Several birds at Laguna de Janubio (24-12-1998: 6), 26-12-1998: 3 at Embalse de Los Molinos (F), 29-12-1998: 1 at the Salinas near Coceteros.
Green Sandpiper - Tringa ochropus: 26-12-1998: 1 at Embalse de Los Molinos (F).
Common Sandpiper - Actites hypoleucos: Common around the coast, with the largest numbers in the salinas. 24-12-1998: 8 at Laguna de Janubio, 26-12-1998: 4 at Embalse de Los Molinos (F), 29-12-1998: 4 at the Salinas near Coceteros.
Turnstone - Arenaria interpres: Common around the coast. Larger numbers: 24-12-1998: 10 at Laguna de Janubio, 26-12-1998: 3 at the harbour of Corralejo (F), 29-12-1998: 6 at the Salinas near Coceteros.
Black-headed Gull - Larus ridibundus: 18-12-1998: 4 at Laguna de Janubio, 24-12-1998: 6, 25-12-1998: 1 flying past Puerto del Carmen, 28-12-1998: 3 near Arrecife.
Lesser Black-backed Gull - Larus fuscus: Small groups seen along the south-east coast.
Yellow-legged Gull - Larus cachinnans atlantis: Common along the coast and in the cultivated areas around Arricife, Teguise and northern part of the island. Large numbers: 23-12-1998: 500 at the salinas below Mirador de Guinate, 25-12-1998: 200 at El Jable, 28-12-1998: 100 at Los Helechos.

Yellow-legged gull south of Jameos del Agua, 28-12-1998
Sandwich Tern - Sterna sandvicensis: Common along all coasts, e.g. 27-12-1998: 10 at sea near Puerto del Carmen.
Black-bellied Sandgrouse - Pterocles orientalis: 26-12-1998: 3 calling and flying around south of Cotillo (F).
Rock Dove - Columbia livia: Presumably wild birds seen on the lava fields around Timanfaya and the sea cliffs of Risco de Famara. Tame birds are everywhere.
Collared Dove - Streptopelia decaocta: Seen in most towns, e.g. Puerto del Carmen, Arrecife (20-12-1998: 15), Corralejo (F).
Pallid Swift - Apus pallidus brehmorum: 26-12-1998: 3 flying over the cliffs south of Cotillo (F).
Hoopoe - Upupa epops: 17-12-1998: 1 near the airport, 20-12-1998: 4 at El Jable, 23-12-1998: 1 in Haría, 26-12-1998: 2 at Embalse de Los Molinos (F), 29-12-1998: 1 at El Jable.
Lesser Short-toed Lark - Calendrella rufescens polatzeki: Seen in groups in arid areas. 22-12-1998: 40 at El Rubicon, 27-12-1998: 60 at El Rubicon.

Lesser short-toed lark in the light of the setting
sun, El Rubicon, 27-12-1998
Swallow - Hirundo rustica: 30-12-1998: 2 flying west along the coast at Puerto del Carmen.
Berthelot's Pipit - Anthus berthelotii berthelotii: The most commonest bird, found everywhere on the island and often very tame.

A berteloth's pipit on the lava beach Playa de
Janubio, 24-12-1998
Meadow Pipit - Anthus pratensis: 18-12-1998: 2 at Laguna de Janubio, 22-12-1998: 1 at Laguna de Janubio.
Grey Wagtail - Motacilla cinerea cinerea: 26-12-1998: 1 at Embalse de Las Peñitas (F).
White wagtail - Motacilla alba: Seen in small numbers along the coast and in and around towns.
Robin - Erithacus rubecula rubecula: 25-12-1998: 2 on the Tachiche golf course, 28-12-1998: 1 at same place.
Black Redstart - Phoenicurus ochruros: 23-12-1998: 2 at Haría, 26-12-1998: 1 at Embalse de Los Molinos (F).
Canary Island Chat - Saxicola dacotiae: 26-12-1998: 1 female along the road south of Embalse de Las Peñitas (F).
Song Thrush - Turdus philomelos: 25-12-1998: 2 on the Tachiche golf course, 28-12-1998: 1 at same place, 28-12-1998: 1 at Máguez.
Spectacled Warbler - Sylvia conspicillata orbitalis: Common in all arid areas. After I became familiar with their alarm call I heard them everywhere, e.g. 26-12-1998: 20 at Embalse de Las Peñitas (F), 28-12-1998: 10 around the Tachiche golf course.
Sardinian Warbler - Sylvia melanocephala: 23-12-1998: 1 male at Haría.
Blackcap - Sylvia atricapilla atricapilla: 23-12-1998: 3 male, 2 female at Haría.
Chiffchaff - Phylloscopus collybita collybita: 20-12-1998: 2 in Arricife (one singing), 23-12-1998: 2 at Haría, 25-12-1998: 2 around the Tachiche golf course, 26-12-1998: 1 at Embalse de Las Peñitas (F).
Blue Tit - Parus caeruleus degener: 23-12-1998: 3 at Haría, 26-12-1998: 1 at Betancuria (F).
Great Grey Shrike - Lanius excubitor koenigi: Common and seen all over the island, e.g. 20-12-1998: 8 in El Jable, 25-12-1998: 10 around the Tachiche golf course and 20 at El Jable.

Great grey shrike near the lighthouse on; Punta de Pechiguera, 19-12-1998
Raven - Corvus corax: 20-12-1998 and 25-12-1998: 2 in El Jable, 23-12-1998: 2 at Mirador del Río, 26-12-1998: 2 at Embalse de Las Peñitas (F), 28-12-1998: 2 at Los Helechos.

Raven at Mirador del Rio, 23-12-1998
Starling - Sturnus vulgaris: 28-12-1998: 7 flying across the road near Guatiza.
Spanish Sparrow - Passer hispaniolensis: Present in large numbers in all towns (e.g. 22-12-1998: several 100's sleeping in palm trees near the harbour of Puerto del Carmen, 23-12-1998: 200 in Haría), 26-12-1998: 60 at Embalse de Los Molinos (F).
Canary - Serinus canaria: 28-12-1998: 4 south of Haría, below Mirador de Haría.
Goldfinch - Carduelis carduelis: 26-12-1998: 1 at Betancuria (F).
Linnet - Acanthis canabina harterti: Common, but not seen everywhere. 28-12-1998: 40 at Los Helechos and 10 at Mirador del Haría.
Trumpeter Finch - Bucanetes githagineus amanthum: Common in desert areas. 19-12-1998: 8 near El Golfo, 20-12-1998: 5 in El Jable, 26-12-1998: 4 south of Cotillo (F), 26-12-1998: 10 at Embalse de Los Molinos (F).

Other wildlife

The pools along the coast south of Playa de Janubio hold some sea life, including what I believe to be heremite crabs. When swimming in sea from Puerto del Carmen you can encounter several species of fish (saw 5 different). Very clear water, so it must also be a nice area to go snorkeling or scuba diving.

Butterflies

Monarch - Danaus plexippus: 20-12-1998: 4 in Arricife
Some 4 other unidentified species, the commonest being a small yellow butterfly.

Mamals

Barbary ground squirrle - Atlantoxerus getulus: 26-12-1998: 1 at Embalse de Las Peñitas (F) and 1 along the road to Pájara (F).
Rabbit - Oryctolagus cuniculus: common on the Tachiche golf course
Cat - Felis catus: many roadkills

Reptiles

Haria lizard - Galiotia atlantica: Common but shy, except on the rocky coast south of Jameos del Agua where you can hand-feed them with bread.; Haria lizard on the lava south of Jameos del Agua, 28-12-1998.